View Full Version : Need Help
Snowman
13-12-2002, 10:10 PM
I have bought a PRO3 and are about to build the DIFF, but have som problems.
There are a spring in the diff and two foam washer.
Thay are laying there inside the plastic form and scramble around, shold thay to that?
the foam washer can fal of the diff
//Jimmy
sosidge
13-12-2002, 10:19 PM
I don't fully understand what you're saying - all I know is there are no foam parts in the diffs.
If you're talking about the spring and two washers in the end, they will be held in place by the nut and it's plastic mount which slides in from the side.
Snowman
14-12-2002, 11:35 AM
aha.... thanks... =) Now it workes like it shod =) But it was a hell to get the diffs perfecly mounted.
//Jimmy
Snowman
15-12-2002, 10:19 PM
I am about to mount the Speed controller (LRP SPORT DIGITAL). There are a heat sink that you have to mount on top of the speedcontroller, i know how its supose to be mount, but what glue can i juse? Will it go fine with a regular 5 sec fast glue or do i have to get som special glue that transfer heat better?
An other thing, there ** some soft rails witch may be mounted in the battery tray(on HPI PRO3). I have tryed to mount this soft rails on both sides but then the battery dont fit, i tryed to have the rail on only one side and that when smothly, but how is it supos to be mounted?
//Jimmy
X-treme R/C
15-12-2002, 10:38 PM
you mena the battery bar, what battery format are you running stick or saddle?
Snowman
15-12-2002, 11:30 PM
I have Sonyo 3000 HR
Did you know anything of the heat sink to LRP Speed controller(ECS)
//Jimmy
X-treme R/C
16-12-2002, 12:14 AM
nope, yes but what format are they in stick or saddle
Snowman
16-12-2002, 12:21 AM
It is cells
//Jimmy
X-treme R/C
16-12-2002, 12:32 AM
i know, but i need to iknow what format they are built in stick or saddle before i can help ya. have you got a picture of the batteries? did you sodler them your self?
Snowman
16-12-2002, 12:36 AM
Here them are
####
//Jimmy
There seems to be a copyright issue between Snowman and "invector.nu", so I deleted the link.
I was here! - H-Trainer
X-treme R/C
16-12-2002, 12:43 AM
how have u soldered them together, in saddle pack formation??
if so put the battery pack in and then push the battery bar under the motor mount then clip down at the front. You will want the groovey side facing down!
Snowman
16-12-2002, 10:53 AM
Dont realy understand what you mean...
//Jimmy
X-treme R/C
16-12-2002, 12:31 PM
did you solder them up yourself using bars
sosidge
16-12-2002, 01:03 PM
When you say "soft rails" do you mean the sticky-backed foam? If so, you can just trim it with a sharp knife.
LRP suggest superglue for holding on the heatsinks, although I've used some thicker epoxy. The heatsink is glued to the plastic case, NOT to the FET's.
X-treme R/C
16-12-2002, 02:39 PM
do your batts look like this
http://www.modelsportuk.com/v20020702/static/ms_static_20020702/empty.html
i dotn mean those batteries but are they assembled liek that
Snowman
16-12-2002, 03:32 PM
I cant see anything... the site dont work...
I have some problem to solder the cells together. The soldermass is melting on the metal bars between the cells, but it will not melt on the cell..... And the cell goes relly hot
//Jimmy
X-treme R/C
16-12-2002, 04:13 PM
ah so they are saddle packs
use teh bar with the groovey side down
sosidge
16-12-2002, 04:55 PM
Make sure you're not using silver solder, as it's melting temperature is too high. Regular 60/40 is the stuff.
Don't let the cell get hot - make sure the iron is hot before you put it on the cell, feed in some solder at the point where the iron touches the cell - this should "tin" the cell, giving a bump of solder.
Then place the tinned battery bar on the cell, apply the iron to the bar, and watch as the solder flows and they stick together. Remove the iron, then hold the bar in place as the solder cools.
Skill
16-12-2002, 06:34 PM
Try using flux to tin the cells, this is what I do and it works really well, much easier to solder things together when using flux :)
Steve
Snowman
17-12-2002, 01:29 AM
It when well and i got the car runing =) Thanks for all the tips =)
The solder do not look to fine, but i will fix it later.
I have som bannana connections(GOLD PLATED) with out a handle on them to the battery, but i dont like them, thay are to hard to take off. I would like somthing like real banana connections but smaller, do you know any good connectors?
Right now i have cabel from plus and minus that goes with the battery upp against the motor, band in the ends ther are connections to the Speed controller.
But I dont like this ether, maby i just take of the cabels from plus and sets some conections right on the battery.
If you have some good way to solve the battery connection, let me know =) maby a pic?
//Jimmy
tqracer
17-12-2002, 02:48 AM
Here is a pic... double sided tape is included... you just peel and stick.
67 Chevelle SS
17-12-2002, 06:04 AM
Originally posted by Skill
Try using flux to tin the cells, this is what I do and it works really well, much easier to solder things together when using flux :)
Steve OMG That's SO true. Flux basically cleans off any oil and make the bond so strong, you couldn't break off a batt bar unless you litterally threw your batt pack at the ground.:eek:
BTW That stick on heatsink is news to me.:confused:
X-treme R/C
17-12-2002, 01:27 PM
hmm me too, i may get the worlds pack for my nosram but i dont see how a heatsink helps
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